Going with the Irish way ...

Day 3, Tankardstown to Doolin

We tested ‘Murphy’s Law’ today – what could go wrong did go wrong and believe it or not it started at breakfast. 8am we decided was a sensible time to start our first full day of exploring Ireland. Unfortunately Murphy the chef had a bad night on Sunday night and didn’t make into work on time to fix our breakfast. The same Murphy therefore hadn’t baked the bread for our breakfast; had neglected to order sausages from Murphy the butcher and from thereon it became a day of Murphyisms.

Our plan had been to have an early breakfast in order to beat the crowds at Newgrange. By the time we had our breaky and checked out of the wonderful Tankardstown we knew we were later than was optimal to beat the crowds at Newgrange. When we finally made it to the visitor centre we were told that the next available bus/tour wasn’t till 1.30pm. Bernie nearly blew a fuse; and that was the end of our visit to Newgrange.

Feeling some what deflated, we rearranged our plans for the day and decided to proceed to Tullamore, the seat of the Nolan clan in County Offaly. We were not disappointed, Tulllamore displayed all the characteristic quirkiness that befits my Nolan heritage.

Clonmacnoise

From Tullamore we headed to the ruins of Clonmacnoise, a monastery founded by Saint Ciarán on the eastern bank of the River Shannon. The site includes the ruins of a cathedral, seven churches (10–13th century), two round towers, three high crosses and the largest collection of Early Christian grave slabs in Western Europe.

Fascinating place to visit and the stories of religious fervour to keep the place going against numerous attacks by Vikings, Danes and the English makes you realise how hard life in these communities was.

Doolin

And onward to Doolin. This was an experience in Irish driving. The speed limit on the roads were crazily optimistic. The roads are about one and a half car widths at best and twist and wind and there are no verges, just bracken over stone walls on either side with the odd bridge wall to add a solid surprise; the brambles and blackberries scrape the sides of the car as you squeeze by.

Doolin is a charming small seaside village on the southwest coast. Set against the Atlantic Ocean and surrounded by the spectacular bare limestone landscape of the Burren, it is a place of breathtaking beauty and a place for walking. People walk everywhere, in fact they cover the roads.

The Cathedral, North cross and church ruins at Clonmacnoise.

The West Tower and crosses in the fields at Clonmacnoise.

The South Cross and church ruins at Clonmacnoise.

The Doolin Hotel.

Cottages by the creek at Doolin.